Bookpacking’s Blog

Glancing at the news on Germany’s English-speaking The Local, we came across this interesting opinion piece. Recently, arsonists caused huge damage to a military base in Dresden and Berlin is gearing up for the annual May Day riots. So as anarchists spray acid in bars and destroy cars in East Berlin, and local bohemians start to rethink just how edgy they like their cool, is Germany on the edge of mass unrest?

The writer thinks not. But as Bookpacking has previously mentioned, things are bubbling on the continent. One only has to look at all the banners on display outside French universities, or attempt to access the Eiffel Tower on a public holiday to see that there’s a steady simmer of discontent as the economy bites and purse strings tighten. Some French employees have even resorted to ‘kidnapping’ their bosses. This generally involves barricading them in their office, rather than bundling them into a car boot.

Reading on The Local that a “socialist firebrand” had called for similar activity in Germany, Bookpacking thought this was perhaps a little tactless: over there ‘abducting industrialists’ brings to mind the infamous fate of the kidnapped boss Hanns-Martin Schleyer. His body was dumped in a French wood on 19 Oct 1977 by the Baader-Meinhof gang as they waged war on the (then West German) establishment. It may be 32 years ago, but it still exercises a hold on the nation’s imagination. As a whole heap of anniversaries roll around in 2009 including WW2, the Weimar Republic and the Berlin Wall’s demise it promises to be an interesting year.

Savvy vagabonds have been using the Nationwide Building Society’s transaction charge-free services for years now. But even this trusty institution is tightening its belt in these lean times. However, as this article points out, it’s only a half-notch; it still remains a good bet if you want to withdraw your wedge abroad. Check it out to see if you’re paying through the nose and being hit with a hefty hike for what is essentially a couple of computers talking to each other.

 Romania; Brasov; Bran Castle

It seems that if the vampires don’t get you, the bears will. Romania is bear country, and as the snow falls we can only hope they’re all hibernating. We would be, if we had the choice. If you were watching A Place in the Sun the other week, you might have seen Brasov featured. A cottage in newly-developing Transylvania could be had for a paltry £12,000 and a couple of wannabe expats were checking it out.

The scene of a 1987 would-be revolution – prefiguring the later internal coup (and it was) that led to Caecescu’s execution in ‘89 – Brasov is only a couple of hours from Bucharest. It also has a ski field which recently topped a Post Office poll for value-for-money, and if Dracula Land ever takes off it’ll be number one on the global vampire tourist trail.

But before any property sharks relocate their real estate operation east – with a view to sucking the locals dry – they might want to think about the recession. Krakow is already experiencing a surplus of supply and a lack of demand in the tourist sector and one budget airline to cancel flights. When you have no money at all, even cheap is dear.

 England; Luton Airport

Budget airlines are steadily opening up the previously ignored east. Bad news for environmentalists, but good news for people in places like Sofia who want to pop down to the beach for the weekend. And who are we to deny people further east the pleasures we have so long taken for granted? Plus, sitting on the latest generation of Airbus, you can console yourself that flights are becoming ever more efficient.

And as these airlines run out of ‘new Barcelonas’ they’re carrying more and more business people and opening up trade links. After all, if we want people to come and fill the jobs we can’t/won’t take ourselves, then they’ve got to get here somehow?

Wizz Air has started a number of services from the UK to places like Timisoara in Romania, or Kiev in Ukraine. Ridiculously cheap seat sales – even artificially lower (how long can that last?) during the ‘downturn/recession/depression/crisis’ – have facilitated Bookpacking’s 2009 eastern odyssey.

Following in the footsteps of the ‘89 revolutions, we’re doing a tour to find out the state of the post-communist nation. We’ve been to the Czech and Slovak Republics; hung out in Hungary; snowboarded in Poland and stood at the famous Lenin shipyard gate; now Romania is calling. Sofia and Belgrade are on the itinerary too as we broaden our horizons.

Like most things in life, travel has its pros and cons. Yes, there’s an environmental price to pay. But maybe if we can find out a little more about ‘them’, and they can find out a little more ‘us’ – there’ll be a little more understanding in the world and that will pay a dividend?

Hungary; somewhere between Vienna and Budapest

As overhead screens drop down to start playing the passenger information video that precedes a feature film, the pretty Hungarian stewardess leans over. In perfect English asks if we’d like complimentary coffee, tea or chocolate? After a safety briefing she’d passed down the aisle with free headphones and while we’re plugging these in she returns with a thick and creamy hot chocolate.

Giving our arrival time in Budapest, she had told us the name of the man tasked with getting us there in one piece, but hadn’t mentioned our altitude. At a rough guess, we reckon we’re cruising at somewhere in the region of 8 feet. Hungarian carrier Orangeways is another new central European bus company giving planes and trains a run for their money. Last week Czech competitor Student Agency* took us from Brno to Bratislava in style, and tonight Orangeways quietly and efficiently whiz us from one former bastion of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to another. Doubtless Austria’s OBB would have provided a smooth and comfortable ride too, but their trains would have cost 3-4 times more and taken just as long.

Their German counterpart DB is supposed to be buying the British government’s stake in Eurostar. Does National Express have anything to fear from foreign competition? Perhaps it wouldn’t be a bad thing if, in the free trade Euro-village, the likes of Student Agency and Orangeways became players in the UK market? Student Agency even give out free magazines and newspapers, and on both lines if you don’t like the film (broadcast in the local language and English) you can always listen to the in-cabin radio. They’ve even got Wifi on some routes.

One of the few things that gets Bookpacking really riled (enough to rip a bookmark in two; a card one obviously, not leather) is overpriced UK transport. Mega Bus have brought prices down on some routes with their no frills approach, and National Express (who also said goodbye to coach stewards a long time ago) offer Fun Fares which can work out at £1 per hour of long distance travel. French operator Veolia, which one driver told Bookpacking is owned by the French government, is already quietly expanding into the UK. But maybe a bit of this Hungaro-Czech style of coach travel wouldn’t go amiss. Orangeways and Student Agency have already named their crossborder operations using English words. Have pan-European brand name, will travel?

* open to all, though students are as welcome as anyone else